The Best Prices on the Best Models of Women’s Sandals

Women’s sandals are of quite a few varieties to suit the occasion, the dress, and the time of the day and most importantly the mood of the woman. Women’s shoes could vary from simple flip flops and Hawaiian sandals to the more elegant and stylish dress sandals. Other models of women’s sandals include those made for comfort with a sporty look.

Dress sandals are the favorites among women, one reason why most women have dozens of models in their collection. These sandals can have a metallic bronze, silver or gold color for a sparkling evening gown. The Drew Iris models made of patent black leather are slightly more expensive costing over a hundred dollars but look amazing for corporate trousers and a more formal setting. Other varieties of leather include the red patent leather and the brown leather both of which are elegant and suit many a occasion. The black satin and ivory satin are fast gaining popularity with ivory matin and latte satins following suit. Most of these women’s sandals are adorned with a 2 inch heel, a sling back strap, a padded foot bed for comfort, breathable linings for keeping the feet comfortable and a flexible element making the insoles very stable.

Black, brown and natural multi woven leather women’s sandals are another fashionable product hitting the market. Atanado leather weaves, easy flex rubber sole, custom fitting closure and sling backs make these leather models worth their cost. Dr.Scholl’s varieties cost around 25 dollars which is way inexpensive for such quality products. The double cushioned, double strapped designs with elevated heels and slender foot beds and circulation nubs make the Crocs a good option as women’s sandals. These are especially good for extensive usage, with a casual sporty look especially for long walks.

Wedge sandals with suede exteriors, 5 inch wedge and adjustable straps and Sheikh egan multi strap sandals are two other hot models which look different but very trendy with their distinct designs. Women’s sandals this season are marked with the distinct effort to be different while following the current trends. They are not breakaway models, yet have their own individuality. Be it the straps and slingbacks, the heels and wedges, the flats and slip-ons, all the women’s sandals look good in their own sense. Given the large number of options at such affordable prices, most women are going to have a hard time resisting their temptation.

Get the Skinny on Men’s Skinny Jeans

Lest you think that men’s skinny jeans are the invention of the 21 century, think again. Actually, skinny jeans have been worn by men since the 1950s although in various incarnations. Even the kings of rock and roll – The Beatles and Elvis Presley – wore them and girls just went crazy.

Lest you think that men’s skinny jeans are the invention of the 21st century, think again. Actually, skinny jeans have been worn by men since the 1950s although in various incarnations. Even the kings of rock and roll – The Beatles and Elvis Presley – wore them and girls just went crazy.

Well, now more and more 21st century men (and boys aspiring to be men, too) are going crazy over skinny denim jeans. This comes as no surprise as these jeans can perform magic on your physical body, on your psychological well-being and on your pockets.

Skinny jeans are magic on the body because these make the wearer appear slim but toned. Every muscle is encased in sensual fabric but the flaws are hidden under the fabric, too. And if you have the limbs of an Adonis, watch the girls fantasize about what lies beneath those men’s skinny jeans.

Of course, your ego will receive a boost! You should feel more confident ala Justin Timberlake, all because you chose the right skinny jeans. Did we mention that these jeans are very affordable, too?

So, now that you have been convinced of the merits of skinny denim jeans for men, let’s move on to the things that you must remember when choosing and using them. Keep in mind that fashion is good but when it causes too much trouble, then it is time to assess your priorities.

First, not all men’s skinny jeans are created equal, which is true for the body types as well. When chosen incorrectly, you will have bulges in all the wrong places. Or worse yet, you will actually look ridiculous in these types of jeans!

Thus, the first rule is that you must choose according to your body type. For example, if you are on the tall side, you can go for the scrunched-at-the-ankle look while shorter men should go for a cleaner look. Keep in mind, too, that since skinny jeans are tight all around, your excess flab can and will show. If you are on the plump side, then you should reconsider going for the skinny denim and give one of the other styles a try.

Second, you should take proper measures to protect your nut sack from too-tight men’s jeans. You are increasing your risks for reproductive problems when your private parts are deprived of the proper flow of blood. Think lower sperm counts, lesser ejaculations and even infertility.

If you cannot move comfortably in new men’s skinny jeans, then don’t expect to move more freely after 10 or so washes. It will still fit the same – very tight as to ban breathing, walking and living on your feet. Instead, you could move up a size or two larger so as to still have the skinny jeans look without the pain and suffering.

Third, you have to keep it simple. By simple, we mean letting your legs get almost all the attraction in your outfit. No loud Hawaiian prints, stick to long-sleeved polo shirts and plain t-shirts coupled with either slim shoes or Converse rubber shoes for a bad-ass effect.

If runway models, rock stars and skateboard experts can pull men’s skinny jeans, so can you. Just remember this skinny on the skinny denim for men and you should be the fashionista of the block without giving up your manliness.

Machine Embroidery on Jackets

Of all the different wearable items that can be embroidered, jackets would appear to be the easiest. When most of think of jackets in terms of embroidery, large areas for full back and left chest designs come to mind. What many of us often forget are the little curveballs apparel manufacturers are adding into their designs such as box pleats and seams down the back. Fashion forward styles may have things like raglan sleeves which can throw off design placement since they lack the guideline of a shoulder seam.

One sure way to begin with a jacket that is fit for embroidery is to focus on working with styles that give the fewest headaches. Therefore, do some research on the newest trends. In addition, start with a machine that is in top notch condition, with fresh needles and bobbins. Below are the other basic elements to consider in your quest for trouble-free jacket embroidery.

Choosing a hoop

The best choice in hoops for jackets is the double-high hoop. This hoop is taller than the average hoop so offers more holding power. You can wrap your hoop with white floral tape, medical gauze, twill tape or bias tape to prevent hoop marks and help give a snug fit. Tissue paper, backing or waxed paper can also be used. Hoop these materials on top of the jacket, then cut a window for the embroidery. A thin layer of foam under the tape can also help. But avoid masking tape as it tends to be sticky and leaves a residue on jacket and hoop. When choosing your hoops, remember that oval hoops hold better all the way around than do square hoops with oval corners. The “square oval” holds better in the corners than on the sides, top and bottom.

Needles

The size and type of needle will depend on the fabric of the jacket. Leather jackets call for an 80/12 sharp. (Wedge shaped “leather” needles tend to do more harm than good.) Use this same sharp needle on poplin and other cotton-type jackets. Use a 70/10 or 80/12 light ballpoint on nylon windbreakers and a 75/11 fine ballpoint on satins and oxford nylons to avoid runs in the fabric. Heavy wool jackets, canvas and denim jackets require a stronger sharp needle. Corduroy stitches well with either ballpoint or sharp. Remember that ballpoint needles nudge the fabric out of the way in order to place the stitch, while sharps cut through the fabric. A good rule of thumb is to use the same size needle to embroider as you would to sew the seams of the jacket in assembly.

As for thread, polyester is a good choice for embroidery on jackets that will be exposed to the weather and coastal climates. Be sure to include washing and dry cleaning instructions with your finished product. Consider choosing a large-eye needle when working with metallic and other heavy specialty threads

Placing the design

Hold a straight-edge across the jacket back from side seam to side seam at the bottom of the sleeves. Mark a horizontal straight line, then double check this with a measurement from the bottom of the jacket to the same line. Jackets are not always sewn together straight. Measure the straight line and divide in half to find the center of the jacket. Place a vertical line through the horizontal line at this point. The intersection of the two lines will be the center. If you are rotating the design to sew upside-down or sideways, take this into consideration when measuring and later when hooping. Use tailor’s chalk, disappearing ink pens or soap to mark your garments. Avoid using pins. Masking tape is available in thin strips at graphic and art stores. It is easy to remove and leaves no marks. Wider masking tape, though, can leave residue.

Centering the design eight inches down from the back of the collar is a good place to start, and should work with most jackets. Small sizes may do better at six inches; very large ones may end up at 10 inches. The top of the design should fall about 2 ½ inches down from the collar of the jacket. But remember that this will change if the jacket has a hood. Then it will be necessary to place the design below the hood.

The best way to determine the center point of the design is to have someone try the jacket on, or invest in a mannequin. Pin an outline of the design or a sew-out to the back, making sure to include lettering and graphics to determine size and placement. Left or right chest designs should be centered three to four inches from the edge of the jacket and six to eight down from where the collar and the jacket body intersect. When embroidering on jackets with snaps or buttons, use the second snap or button as a guide.

Be careful not to place the design too close to the sleeve side of the jacket. Designs are not to be centered on the left chest. The correct placement is closer to the placket than to the sleeve. The center of a sleeve design should fall three to four inches below the shoulder seam of the sleeve. When placing a design on the sleeve of a raglan style jacket, mark the placement using a live model or a mannequin.
Backings

The complexity of a design will often be the major factor when choosing a backing for embroidery. Stitch intensive designs may need the extra stability backing provides. Even jackets made of fabrics such as poplin and satin (that might not otherwise cry out for a backing) can benefit from its use, especially if the design is complex. Consider attaching the backing to the jacket with spray adhesive before hooping to increase stability. Attaching a piece of light cut-away backing-or even rear-away-to a satin jacket can hold the jacket better while stitching, allowing for good registration in your design. And, if you should need to remove stitching, the presence of a backing can make your job easier and safer. Backing can also prevent residue from coated canvas fabrics from raining down into the bobbin housing.

Most jacket materials do not require topping. The exception to this might be the corduroy or fleece jacket where the use of a topping can tame the fluff of the fleece and prevent stitches from falling into the valleys of the corduroy. The use of underlay does a better job than topping for challenging fabrics-and as an added benefit, it does not wash away.

Hooping technique

When hooping, especially large or bulky items, start from the “fixed” side of the thumbscrew and travel around the hoop to the “free end.” Use the heels of your hands to alleviate stress on your fingers and wrists. When hooping flat on a table, make sure that there is nothing between the hoop and the table. If any adjustment is needed, hold as much of the upper hoop in place as you can while adjusting. This prevents the garment from popping out of the hoop.

Always make sure the jacket lining is smooth, and double check to determine that the outer shell and the lining are even. Turning the sleeves inside out can help with hooping a lined jacket.

Hooping too loosely can cause puckering, too tightly can cause fabric burn. It can also stretch the fabric causing it to “spring back” when unhooped, meaning more puckering. Tips to prevent puckering include lightening the tension upper and lower, using tear-away if lettering is fill, using mid-weight cutaway if lettering or design is satin stitch. Adjust the hoops before hooping the garment and do not pull or stretch the fabric after it is hooped. Puckering is a risk when stitching on satin, and the lighter the weight of the satin, the more the danger of puckers. You will have the best results when the hold is firm. If you can move the satin around in the hoop, it will move while stitching.

A light pressing or steaming of the area to be embroidered can improve results and ensure that lining and jacket are lined up correctly. While you are checking to make sure your bobbins are full, it is a good idea to check that no part of the jacket is doubled up under the hoop. And please make sure you are not sewing pockets shut, especially inner ones.

Hooping the jacket upside-down and reversing the design is a good way to keep the bulk of the jacket away from the needles. Make sure the arms of the jacket are out of the way of any stitching before you begin. Use clothespins, bulldog clips, quilting clips or even large hair clips. Make sure that you support the weight of the jacket during embroidery to prevent the fabric from slipping out of the hoop, and to help ensure good registration. Embroidering jackets on the tabletop instead of in the tubular mode can help prevent the weight of the jacket from hampering the job. Check also to make sure the material is flat against the throat plate. If you can push down the fabric, the presser foot will too, and this can cause flagging. Flagging can cause stitching problems and poor registration.